They are a bit of a bollock ache v2's
There are a couple of ways to route the wires in box and in grip
most go for the standard wire each side in box but if using much thicker wire and 2 x fet wire's say on a rear wired box
it can get a bit cramped by motor, so options are widen box at rear and run both motor wires down back, only fet wires go across motor entry in box
G&G default is to run two seperate wires out of both sides of box, then run both at back of grip rather than either side of motor
The DSG I ran both at back of box, both at back of grip, one laid low on negative terminal of motor, then positive ran the long way round motor on top of negative
Reason being there is a blank or plate on bottom of grip motor plate preventing a shorter direct route - could cut a groove but routed it as was allowed....
It did actually lay quite well - was pleased coz thought it would never fit in on such thicker wire - but it did go in there quite easily in the end - well reasonably easy
Still a bollock ache all the same, luckily there are a few options but yes you can solder on a v2 but is regarded as more of pain to remove & service box
where as v3's remove frame/motor cage, and you got access to box - even solder/desolder the switch wires without needing to open box
fitting a fet on a v3 & upgrade wire can all be done without opening the box - though as we know it don't hurt to crack it open and aoe,seals,grease to ensure she is fet & juice ready......
Yes only worked on a few v3's but I do like them as being a bit more user friendly to work on especially electrical wise & test purposes with motor cage on and test away
deffo an improvement on the older v2's in my humble opinion.
But that don't mean I prefer AK's over the Fords of Airsoft - M4's
(I ain't joining the dark side just yet but admit they got a better build/layout)