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Lowering my fps?


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15 replies to this topic

#1
two_zero

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Hello. I just had my AEG tested and was said it was just over 350 fps. The guy at the store said that all sites allow 350 fps, and that some would allow my slight higher fps, and that some wouldn't. I protested and said "I'm sure I seen some sites says 328..?" he said no and shook his head. I asked how to lower the fps and he said the spring would had to be cut down a bit but that their mechanic for some reason couldn't do it.

However I went home and checked bunker 51 and looked. It said 328 fps, or allowing 2% offset 334.56 fps. Mind you this is cqb. So I went to southdown airsoft. Same there.

So my 2 questions, or 3 is...
Is cutting down the spring a correct way to lower the fps or should I do something else?
How much should it be cut to begin with?
Could anyone recommend a "safe" fps for AEGs? By safe I mean I will be able to play anywhere, possible with exception from cqb.

I had a similar issue with my ICS AK hicap, threw it against a tree and bob's your uncle.

 

my toygun is better than your toygun
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#2
Stoka

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I try to go for 320 - 330 as that allows me to play at most sites.

You want to change the spring, most of the Chinese AEG's i've seen have done 360+ as standard. M100 spring should do you.

#3
Finius

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A lot of sites allow 350, as this is the absolute legal limit, 328 is basically the safety option; almost everywhere will let you go full auto with 328.

My advice would to be just buy a 1j spring and have it changed; cutting can work, but if you do that you need to make sure you have a bearing spring guide, and even then it can cause some problems in my experience.

Where did you buy from? It sounds like they were more interested in simply having your money and less about helping you out - I'd avoid going there again!

#4
M_P

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As above, buy an m100 spring

#5
bigshep

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Buy a 1J or M100 spring. This will give you 330'ish FPS, which will drop to around 320 after a few thousand rounds down the barrel.

Spring should be about 10 and about 15 to fit it at any half decent shop/site or gun guru.

Yes you can "clip" a spring, but you may as well put another one in there for the hassle it could cause.

#6
Bagerz

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Im sure its been said, just get a M100, i think there only about 10. Plus a small increase in ROF.


#7
two_zero

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A lot of sites allow 350, as this is the absolute legal limit, 328 is basically the safety option; almost everywhere will let you go full auto with 328.

My advice would to be just buy a 1j spring and have it changed; cutting can work, but if you do that you need to make sure you have a bearing spring guide, and even then it can cause some problems in my experience.

Where did you buy from? It sounds like they were more interested in simply having your money and less about helping you out - I'd avoid going there again!


How do I check the bearing spring guide? will cutting it risk to damage the rifle? If not I might as well try it, then if it don't work buy the 1j or m100 (any difference?)

As for what's said after, this is absolutely not the case. My rifle is second hand, I went to the shop and they gave me a free crono (should I normaly pay for this?). Very nice of them :)


As for fitting, would this not be a home job? I looked at a tutorial on how to change the spring and it looks very straight forward I've separated the gearbox from the rest of the rifle already.


Sorry for not answering to all messages, took one that seemed to sum up the relative answers quite well.

I had a similar issue with my ICS AK hicap, threw it against a tree and bob's your uncle.

 

my toygun is better than your toygun
serious stuff / AK picture thread
 


#8
Finius

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Bearing spring guides will have metal rings for the spring to sit on, so that when it gets twisted it can spin-out and release tension; if you don't have these metal rings and instead have a standard springguide, the cut part of the spring will not be able to spin at all, or it may dig into the guide and damage that.

Provided it's done okay and you have a decent spring guide, then the gun will be fine, otherwise there is scope for damage, but it wouldn't just be an instant "fire the gun, whip-crack, gun dead", it would be gradual, most likely, damage to the spring guide and the spring more than anything.

You wouldn't normally pay for a chrono check, my objection was that they didn't seem to want to help you with your downgrade; it seems to me like once they had your money they wanted you out the door, but maybe they genuinely thought it was all good.

Provided you are careful when changing it, it won't be a problem, but if you've not done gearbox work before, it can be very finicky, especially with all the springs and the shims and with just how much there is that can go wrong (I don't want to discourage you, I just equally want to avoid giving you advice that'll screw your weapon up). What rifle are you working on specifically - I'll maybe be able to tell you how easy it will be compared to some others etc etc...

#9
G-Force

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Your better off buying a new spring m=in my oppinion. That way if you go to a site with higher FPS limit you can change back to the old one
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#10
two_zero

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Your better off buying a new spring m=in my oppinion. That way if you go to a site with higher FPS limit you can change back to the old one

Bearing spring guides will have metal rings for the spring to sit on, so that when it gets twisted it can spin-out and release tension; if you don't have these metal rings and instead have a standard springguide, the cut part of the spring will not be able to spin at all, or it may dig into the guide and damage that.

Provided it's done okay and you have a decent spring guide, then the gun will be fine, otherwise there is scope for damage, but it wouldn't just be an instant "fire the gun, whip-crack, gun dead", it would be gradual, most likely, damage to the spring guide and the spring more than anything.

You wouldn't normally pay for a chrono check, my objection was that they didn't seem to want to help you with your downgrade; it seems to me like once they had your money they wanted you out the door, but maybe they genuinely thought it was all good.

Provided you are careful when changing it, it won't be a problem, but if you've not done gearbox work before, it can be very finicky, especially with all the springs and the shims and with just how much there is that can go wrong (I don't want to discourage you, I just equally want to avoid giving you advice that'll screw your weapon up). What rifle are you working on specifically - I'll maybe be able to tell you how easy it will be compared to some others etc etc...


Will buy a new spring rather than to cut. Witch one thou? I figured I either for for 1 Joule Spring for most AEG Systema or M100 Stainless Spring Hurricane HE0602
As for "if you've not done gearbox work before", well, some time need to be the first. I am quite handy doing a lot of mechanics and tinkering on my spare time. As for my gun, it's an JG AU-1G, I got a second hand gun for very cheap so it wouldn't be a 500 loss if I failed something:)

It sounds very much like I'm fighting a corner, I'm not thou, I appreciate all the advices:)

I had a similar issue with my ICS AK hicap, threw it against a tree and bob's your uncle.

 

my toygun is better than your toygun
serious stuff / AK picture thread
 


#11
Devastator

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Either should be OK.

#12
joshcowin

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310 will let you play at most sites.and wont effect range.

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#13
two_zero

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Got an m100 spring, faced a little problem, the end of the original spring have a little hook, while the new one does not..

I ordered the wrong spring and should just go and order the correct one?
I should just bend a hook on it?
I should just ignore this and install it anyway?

Posted Image

also, the new spring is what looks like a inch or so longer than the old one.. By looking at it one would assume the longer spring would be more powerful in the same space, but maybe its just a lot softer... This also makes me wonder if I got the right thing...


edit:
Tried to pop the spring in... it seems way to long, it curls when in place. I'd take a picture but I am a bit limited in my number of hands.. Is there different sizes springs? My gearbox is from a JG AUG, it measures about 16cm, the old spring is about 15,5cm, the new spring is about 17,8cm (the last, newer, and supposable weaker one was WAY harder to get in)

I had a similar issue with my ICS AK hicap, threw it against a tree and bob's your uncle.

 

my toygun is better than your toygun
serious stuff / AK picture thread
 


#14
two_zero

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Contacted the guy who sold em the spring, his response was:

"If you chrono at 350 i would just cut two rings of the spring thats in the gun, that would be the best way,

If you cut the existing spring remember to bend the profile of were you cut it"


should I? ...or rather, what should I do, stuck with an open gearbox and no functional rifle now^^

I had a similar issue with my ICS AK hicap, threw it against a tree and bob's your uncle.

 

my toygun is better than your toygun
serious stuff / AK picture thread
 


#15
walshy155

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Slap in a m100?

#16
Cerbo Knight

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If this problem isn't already solved, I'd go ahead and install anyway.

The M100 will never go over 350FPS unless you have the most efficient airseal of all time, of all time. :P
If the spring is tough to put in, it's only because it's new and will loosen itself up soon and will bed in quite nicely to a CQB friendly FPS, should be around the 300-330 range.

Hope that helped, but if it was already solved then maybe it can serve as good advice for someone else? :D
Ask me about general tech problems, I'm happy to help most of the time ;) I'm decent with AEGs, but my speciality is snipers, that being AEG, spring and gas. I'm quite good with GBBR systems too, WA especially.

Ask me about your Tanaka/KJW bolt action problems!
Here's a link to my M40 takedown guide, works for M700's too!


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